It seemed for a while here on the North Fork of Long Island that we would coast right past the chilly bite of winter this year and run right into spring. Buds started popping on trees and gnats could be seen swirling around in the light of a setting sun. Short-sleeve shirts and even a few sun dresses popping up here and there.

But we never get off that easy, and a quick change of weather has brought a healthy dose of snow here in March. At this point it’s somewhat comforting, unlike the seemingly relentless bleakness of the last few winter seasons out here.

Snow means logs on the fire place, red wines that comfort like your favorite blanket. And in our house, it means grilled and braised meats, roasted chicken and coma-inducing bone marrow spread on crostini.

Negronis are barrel-aged and occasionally smoked, the better to enjoy with thick-cut bacon.

Spring is just around the corner, and the BAR Truck will be racing around the North and South Fork of Long Island as the demand for mobile cocktail catering continues to grow. So for now, for today, there’s more than a little bit of appreciation for winter and all the good things to come with it.